„so, wie ich es erlebe, scheint mir das Wallis nicht allein eine der herrlichsten Landschaften, die ich je gesehen habe –, sondern auch in großartiger Weise fähig, dem Ausdruck unserer inneren Welt vielfältige Äquivalente und Entsprechungen anzubieten […].“
Rainer Maria Rilke, the poet, in a letter to a friend. Born 1875 in Prague, he was intrigued by Valais and chose to spend the final years of his life in Valais where he died in 1926.
The Obergoms
Obergoms is one of Switzerland’s best kept secrets. An idyllic valley with picturesque, very well preserved villages, the hearts of which are several centuries old and rightfully enjoy landmark protection, including by the UN. This gem is tucked away between central Switzerland (Berner Oberland) and Italy, just off the main north-south connector, the Saint Gotthard, and up the Rhône river (called Rotten up here) from Geneva and Lac Leman. Here you can enjoy the simplicity and yet impressiveness of the Swiss mountains, find quietness and peace, relax and breathe in the power of nature. Have breathtaking tours by foot or bike, enjoy winter sports and all other kinds of sportive activities. The area also offers cultural highlights (many beautiful and richly decorated churches or the music festival of Ernen) and all the foodies need, top restaurants and innovative explorations, as well as of course the fantastic wines of Valais.
Reckingen
The House is surrounded by other old and beautiful structures, mostly built around the 17th century, namely the Taffinerhüs (built 1665), former residence of a local noble family, the de Kalbermattens. In the village there are a number of farmers selling local produce (honey, cheese, etc). There is also a bakery, a fantastic butcher, the cheese manufacturer (Sennerei) and a small supermarket (open 6am to 7pm every day of the year). The nearest bigger supermarket is in neighbouring Münster, which also has the local skiing school and a sports shop (winter sports and hiking equipment). The Joopi (restaurant and hotel by the train station) is a local institution, cuisine is good and a must to enjoy an apéro (üs ballon, a glass of white). Plenty more local restaurants are listed in the info found in the chalet.
A great place to find quiet and inspiration. One can easily leave the car for 2 weeks and get everything needed by short (and beautiful) strolls – this helps to decelerate and focus.
Basics for Daily Life
Groceries
The local supermarket is small but offers everything you need to survive, food shopping, veggies, wines and basic toiletries and washing equipment. Moreover, it is open 7 days a year, real luxury… There is a bigger supermarket in neighbouring Münster, appox 2.5km away.
The Butcher
The local butcher, Eggs Beat, right next to the little supermarket, has the most delicious Valais dried meat specialties (beef, deer, sheep, pork) and sausages. He was featured as opener in a 2018 one page article in Neue Züricher Zeitung about the Valais being the Swiss region with the most registered specialties.
The Bakery
Also important to have is a good bakery, situated on the main street, next to Eggs Beat. They have a large variety of fresh bakeries every day, including the typical Valais Graubrot (made from rye). Make sure to also try the delicious Valais Baumnusskuchen (walnut tarte).
Local Cheese
No stay in Switzerland without enjoying delicious cheeses. The Sennerei just next to the church offers their own produce, while the Bio Bergkäserei in Gluringen (also just a 10min walk from Chalet des Amis) has a wider selection of cheeses and some other organic products.
Sporting Equipments
The best places for sourcing all kinds of sporting equipments are probably Bacher Sport in Münster and Volken Sport in Fiesch. There are other places, including specialized boutiques, where you can shop or rent hardware, eg for cross-country skiing, biking, etc.